No trip to Split is complete without visiting the green market, this lively, vivid, and charming place we now find ourselves in. Here in Split our green market is known as the Pazar, which comes from Bosnia where they derived the name from the Turkish word pazariti which means to trade or sell.
The Pazar is open 7 days a week from 6.30 in the morning until 2 in the afternoon. It offers all kinds of seasonal vegetables, fruits, nuts, meats, honeys, olive oils, flowers and even home made food such as Soparnik and Pogaca. In the Pazar you want to look for signs that say or ask if the offering is “domaci”. Domaci means of the home, which tells you that this is not industrial produced food, but grown by the local farmers.
I like to say that the Pazar and its seasonal offerings, takes care of our health here in Split. In the spring the wooden tables are completely covered in shades of green with wild asparagus, artichokes, green beans, radishes, arugula, green salad, and young spinach. These spring vegetables are full of Vitamin C and antioxidants to help us wake up after winter.
Then as we move from spring to summer the fruit and vegetables also change and we have more food filled with water to keep us hydrated during the hot Dalmatian summers. This includes juicy cucumbers, tomatoes, strawberries, peaches, and water melon.
In the autumn the Pazar is preparing us for colder days and is supplying us with fruits higher in sugar, like figs, grapes, and plumps, while the vegetables become heavier and include eggplants, kale, cauliflower, and all types of dried beans.
Even if you are not looking to buy something just taking a walk through alleyways of food and I am sure you will find something that will catch your eye. Do not hesitate to ask vendors about their food, they are very proud to talk about their products and there is a good chance you may learn something new.
I enjoy coming to Pazar early every morning because Mare ( my favorite vendor ) always has a smile and whatever I buy I always receive a little present from her, whether it is an extra bunch of blitva – also known as swiss chard, which is a staple in our diet – or a few extra carrots for my always hungry teenage son.